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EOS, Is It Worth Your Time?
EOS (EOS) – Overview And Long Term Price Forecast
EOS is a blockchain protocol that aims to provide a complete system for the smooth creation of decentralized apps. Some of its features include server hosting and cloud storage among others. The protocol emulates many of the characteristics of a “traditional” computer or network but all on the cloud and all on blockchain. Scalability is at the forefront of its appeal with the network being able to handle millions of transactions per second, a fact that makes it a competitor for the Ethereum dApp network.
The EOS ICO was one of a kind because it took place over a whole year starting in June 2020. It raised $4 billion, which is a record surpassed only by Petro (PTR), the Venezuealan Petrodollar. The EOSIO platform was developed by block.one (a private company), based on a white paper published in 2020,the EOSIO mainnet went live in June 2020.
Although the project benefited from large scale funding several network vulnerabilities were revealed leading up to the mainnet launch and afterwards. The vulnerabilities put a dent in the project’s credibility and made many community members question its integrity. This could be a reason for the low volume of EOS dApps created so far, and the reason why Ethereum is still the #2 cryptocurrency by market cap.
EOS/USD Price Analysis – The Big Picture
Currently trading at $3.60, EOS has a circulating supply worth $3,264,256,248, which puts it in the 5 th place according to CoinMarketCap rankings. This is just behind Litecoin and roughly $1 billion ahead of the 6 th ranked Bitcoin Cash but still well behind Ethereum.
Unlike most other cryptocurrencies, EOS did not reach its all-time high at the end of 2020 but at the end of April 2020 which coincided with the launch of the mainnet. The highest recorded price was $21.46 (29 April 2020) but by December last year it had dropped to $1.61. T he pair has been trading in a clear downtrend since hitting its highs and it may go lower. However, this year has been relatively good for EOS which managed to recover from below $2.00 to a high of $4.40 in a move that smacks of reversal.
If we were to analyze 2020 exclusively, we could say the pair is in a mild uptrend, moving above the 100 days Exponential Moving Average and printing higher lows/higher highs. Judging from the larger perspective, this year’s climb is a move generated by downtrend exhaustion which means that resistance to higher prices is likely to be strong. Once a strong pocket of resistance is hit I think this token will start tumbling back down towards last year’s low.
As shown on the Daily chart, EOS has already encountered resistance at $4.40 – $4.60 and has returned to test the previous level at $3.10. The way price behaves inside this channel will determine the next medium-to-long term price action: a break of resistance will take price into $5.80 (and possibly $6.90 – $7.00 during the next 3 to 6 months), while a break of the support around $3.00 will open the door for another drop into $1.55 area.
Daily Chart Support: $3.10; 100 Days EMA; $1.55
Weekly Chart Support : $1.55
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Daily Chart Resistance : $4.60, $5.80
Weekly Chart Resistance : $4.60; $6.90
Most likely scenario : the pair is in a long term downtrend so a drop below $3.00 has a high chance of happening; a break of $4.60 could invalidate such a scenario
Alternate scenario : strong climb towards $5.80 resistance
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Why and How to Calibrate Your Lenses for Razor-Sharp Autofocus
When we finally pluck up the courage to purchase an expensive lens, we expect them to be perfect right? Unfortunately, no matter how good the lens is, there are always going to be minor differences when we attach it to our specific camera.
Often our camera bodies are made at a completely different time and usually in a completely different factory, so when we finally bring the two together there are often minor adjustments that we the user have to make to ensure we’re getting the best image possible from that specific lens.
So regardless of whether our lens is new or old, or if our camera body is new or old, many will say fine-tuning your lens to your camera body is crucial.
How to Calibrate your Lens
Thankfully calibrating your lens isn’t difficult and if you’re going to do all of your lenses at the same time, it shouldn’t take more than a couple of hours to do them all. It’s worth pointing out now that this process is really to calibrate the autofocus on your camera to the desired lens and will not fix ‘soft’ focus lenses in any way. If your lens is soft when you manual focus with it, this process will not improve it.
What You Will Need
- Sturdy tripod
- Focus chart or ruler
- Software to review results
- Patience of a saint
Set your tripod and camera up at the same height as your chart or ruler and make sure the camera is level. Use a spirit level (usually on most tripods) if necessary.
Setting up Your Chart
Next, you’ll need to set up your focus chart. Although there are plenty of places online where you can download and print out focus charts, I personally don’t feel it’s all that necessary. I used a metal ruler that I had in the drawer and that seemed to work for me. In fact, you could just as easily use some packaging that has a lot of text on it.
The real trick here is to mount the focus chart/ruler at an angle so you can see the focus drop off. You just need to have a specific point to focus on and then other areas of detail around it to see where the actual focus is falling. As I said, I used a metal ruler as I could focus on a specific measurement number and then check what was in or out of focus around it.
I mounted mine on a stand at a downward angle and focused my camera halfway along the ruler.
I mounted my ruler at a downward angel and focused half way along the center.
Setting Up Your Camera and Tripod
Next up we’ll need to make a few adjustments on our camera setup and settings.
First, you’ll need to place your camera and selected lens at the appropriate distance from the ruler. This distance is dependent on the focal length of the lens you’re calibrating and the easiest thing to do is check the details on this super handy chart from LensAlign. Their Distance Tool allows you to input your camera sensor size, your focal length and minimum aperture and it’ll give you the optimum distance you’ll need to do the test. Input your numbers and then set up your camera at the appropriate distance as recommends by the site.
You’ll want to set your aperture to the smallest your lens will allow. For example, in this instance, I was calibrating my 50mm f/1.4 lens so I set my camera’s aperture to f1.4. Make sure you have adequate ambient lighting and that you’re shooting at a fast shutter speed to capture a very crisp image to avoid minor movement throwing off the focus adjustments. I had my ISO at 1600 as the noise wasn’t a concern because I wasn’t interested in printing these out.
Next, you’ll want to switch to live-view to enable you to zoom in and really nail the focus. It’s my recommendation that you should select the center focus point as well as choose the smallest focal point possible.
Once all that is done, it’s time to zoom in and focus on the center of the ruler and take a shot. Again, my advice would be to take at least three shots here so that you can get a broader look at the autofocus. Each time de-focus the image and then refocus again to test the autofocus properly.
Importing and Checking your Images
All that’s left to do now is import your photos into editing software like Lightroom or Capture One. Importing your photos into an image capture software enables us to zoom in a lot further than on the back of a camera. Remember that the image on the back of your camera is a JPEG so zooming in a long way can make the image appear fuzzy, whereas importing them into software like Lightroom allows us to check the focus point accurately. Once you have imported your photos, zoom into the image so that the focus point is filling the frame. Now we can assess whether there is any fine tuning to be made with our autofocus.
Import your files and then zoom in so that the focus area is filling the frame. Now we can check to see how accurate our auto focus is behaving.
Pro tip: Sometimes it can be hard to distinguish what is in focus and what isn’t, so a good trick can be to use the color picker and see what colors appear in the focal range. For example, most lenses will have aberrations and those aberrations are consistent in a digital file. Areas that are out of focus behind the focal point tend to have a green hue to them, and areas that are out of focus in front the focal point tend to have a magenta hue to them.
If you’re photographing something neutral in tone then you can use aberrations in colour to determine where the focus point is.
Making the Corrections
First off we’ll need to bring up our AF-Fine tune to turn it on and make the adjustments. This is the Nikon menus but the other cameras use a very similar name and process. For a Nikon DSLR, go to the menu with spanner icon and in there at the bottom, you have the Af Fine-Tune Menu. Go in there and then turn on the AF-Fine-Tune.
Note: I had a quick look for the Canon version and you can see how to access it here: Canon AF Fine tune.
This is where the Nikons AF Fine Tune menu is located but other camera manufacturers have a very similar name for it too and should be easy to find.
So now that we have our AF Fine-Tune enabled, we can begin to make some adjustments. If we look back at our imported images and review them to see what can be improved.
If you feel that the camera’s autofocus is missing the mark consistently, then you’ll need to make some adjustments in the fine tune menu of your camera. So for example, if your autofocus is consistently focusing behind the intended focal point, you’ll need to adjust the autofocus fine tune with minus numbers to bring it back to where it needs to be. Conversely, if the autofocus is consistently focusing just in front of the intended focal point (closer to the camera), you’ll need to increase the autofocus fine tune with positive numbers.
For example in the image above you can see my 28 to 105 mm Lens was consistently back focusing, which meant that the fine tuning adjustments ended up being -13 in the fine tuning menu. This process can take several attempts to get it perfect so you may want to make large changes to begin with to start seeing the effect. Make the fine tune adjustment, take some more shots, review the images in Lightroom and make any necessary adjustments again. Repeat the process until you’re happy.
A Bonus Tip for Nikon Shooters
Did you guys know that us Nikon shooters have a shortcut through this whole lens auto-focus calibration process, that allows the camera to read an image and make micro adjustments automatically?
Well, rejoice because most modern Nikon camera now have this rather hidden feature and here’s how you activate it.
Note: I honestly have not looked to see if this is possible with other brands like Canon and Sony.
Setup up your shot like we mentioned before. In fact, it can be any object that is fixed in front of your tripod. Activate live view, zoom in all the way, use single shot autofocus and select the smallest focal point you have.
You don’t actually have to take a shot as the camera will do that for you in the next step. What you need to do next to hold the auto-focus selection button (often located on the auto and manual focus switch) and the video record button for about 3 seconds.
If done correctly a window will appear asking if you’re sure. Make sure you’re firmly planted with a tripod as it suggests and hit ‘Yes’. I actually recommend very lightly touching the screen (if you have a touchscreen Nikon) to confirm this as any camera movement during the process will not allow you to proceed.
If everything was done correctly, your camera will then show you another screen a couple of seconds later to say “The new value has been added to the ‘AF fine-tune’ ‘Saved value’ list.
You can now go to the fine menu and see what value has been assigned to your lens to correct it.
A Strong Recommendation
Although this is an automated process, I strongly recommend you run this process several times as each time you will likely get a different value assigned to the lens. Remember this is far from an exact process so this was to be expected.
The best solution I found was to simply take an average of several readings. So, for example, I ran the same process 5 times on my lens and here’s readings I got: -16, -15, -19, -13, -14. I just added them all up and divided it by 5 to get the average and then input that number as the best value.
Auto AF fine-tune failed
You will likely get the auto AF failed window a few times and here’s a couple of things I did to fix the issue.
1. Make sure there’s enough ambient light. If not, don’t be afraid to boost the ISO.
2. Shutter speed too low. I was originally shooting at a 60th but it needed a faster shutter of 125th to work in my tests.
3. The camera moved. Like I mentioned before, when the screen pops up asking if you’d like to proceed, be as gentle as possible to avoid any subsequent camera shake.
4. Improper source image. The image filing the focal point needs to have sufficient detail for the camera to look at. Mine had strong lines, but text on a non-shiny surface would work well too.
It’s highly likely that you’ve read the procedure of how to calibrate your lenses before you’ve actually gone ahead and implemented the process for yourself. So before you dive in and start this admittedly mind-numbingly boring process, let me just warn you that this is not the holy grail of razor-sharp images but merely a single step in achieving them.
It’s also worth mentioning that this process only helps to get sharper auto-focus shots, it does not make the lens itself any sharper. If you wanted to test this further to see just how sharp your lens is then I recommend you use live-view, zoom in to the max and take some manual focus shots just to see how sharp your lens actually is a reference point for the auto-focus tests.
Do I really need to calibrate and fine-tune my autofocus?
My basic answer is no, I personally don’t feel this is necessary for most portrait shooters, or street shooters or in fact most shooters that are not using a tripod most of the time. I think if you’re a landscape, wildlife, or still-life shooter, then this is probably worth your time to do as critical focus is often crucial for what you do, but more importantly, achievable.
For those of us shooting portraits or fashion or just people in general, I don’t think you’d notice the adjustments being made here. These are micro adjustments remember, and hard to spot consistently even to the trained eye. Plus the adjustments are barely noticeable in a very controlled situation with the one specific goal is to spot these variances. There is very little chance that whilst we’re handholding a camera and taking a picture of another moving subject with focus and recompose variations that you’d notice these fine-tune adjustments.
Should you calibrate your auto-focus on all of your lenses the next time you have a spare afternoon?
Sure, it can only help.
Should you go out of your way to make calibrating your lenses a priority before you take another photo?
No, I don’t think so.
Well, there you have it. I hope this was useful and at the very least it’s given you some knowledge about the process.
About the author: Jake Hicks is an editorial and fashion photographer based in Reading, UK. He specializes in keeping the skill in the camera and not just on the screen. If you’d like to learn more about his incredibly popular gelled lighting and post-pro techniques, visit this link for more info. You can find more of his work and writing on his website, Facebook, 500px, Instagram, Twitter, and Flickr. This article was also published here.
Canon EOS 800D Review
- Still quite pricey
- Plasticky build
- Only Full HD video
- Optical viewfinder only covers 95%
- Review Price: £749.00
- 24.2MP APS-C CMOS sensor
- Dual Pixel CMOS AF
- 3-inch/1.04m-dots vari-angle touchscreen
- Pentamirror viewfinder, 95% coverage at 0.82x
- Full HD video recording at 60p
- Guided User Interface (optional)
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What is the Canon EOS 800D?
Launched in the early part of 2020, the Canon 800D is the successor to the 750D, which was Canon’s upper entry-level, or ‘step up’, DSLR.
It isn’t a complete overhaul by any stretch of the imagination, but it did introduce Canon’s excellent Dual Pixel AF technology to the company’s entry-level DSLR models for the first time. This increases autofocus speed and accuracy in Live View, as well as when shooting video.
Another improvement came in the form of the Digic 7 processor – something which Canon is still using in some of its current cameras (the most recent is a Digic 8, seen in the likes of the Canon EOS M50). This processor enables 6fps shooting, which is a decent rate at this price point, even by 2020 standards.
To date, the 800D has not yet been replaced by Canon, although some would argue that some of its compact system cameras, particularly the EOS M50, are targeted at the same kind of photographer. For beginners looking for their first ‘proper’ camera, it’s still a good option, particularly if you like the weight and feel of a full-size DSLR.
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Canon EOS 800D – Features
The Canon 800D is built around a 24.2-megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor, which you’ll also find in Canon’s more advanced EOS 80D (£840 body-only). While the 750D/760D also sported 24.2-megapixel sensors, neither included Canon’s Dual Pixel AF technology, so while effective resolution remains identical to the 800D’s sensor, it represents a fairly big step forward.
Likewise, the 800D also employs Canon’s Digic 7 processor (which has since been superseded by the Digic 8). Canon claims that the Digic 7 is able to process data 14x faster than its predecessor, which not only enables the 800D to provide a higher maximum burst speed of 6fps (compared to 5fps on the 750D/760D), but also to fire off a higher number of consecutive images when burst shooting.
In addition, the new sensor and processor pairing also allows the 800D to offer a higher maximum native sensitivity setting of ISO 25,600, along with the equivalent of ISO 51,200 in expanded mode. By way of comparison, the 750D/760D both offer a maximum native sensitivity setting of ISO 12,800, with the equivalent of ISO 25,600 available in expanded mode.
Perhaps the most notable enhancement the 800D enjoys over its predecessors is the addition of Canon’s Dual Pixel AF technology. Introduced with the EOS 70D in 2020, Dual Pixel AF is the name given to Canon’s proprietary on-sensor phase-detection technology.
In practical terms the main benefit of Dual Pixel AF is that it greatly speeds up focus acquisition times when the camera is being operated in Live View (in real-time on the camera’s LCD screen, rather than through the viewfinder). The way it works is that each pixel on the sensor’s surface is split into two individual photodiodes – one left and one right. Each of these can be read separately, thereby allowing them to be used for phase-detection AF purposes.
Prior to the introduction of Dual Pixel AF, Canon DSLRs relied on contrast-detect technology and were renowned for providing fairly sluggish AF performance.
The move to Dual Pixel AF therefore represents a big step up in terms of performance. Indeed, Canon claims that its latest iteration of Dual Pixel AF is the fastest on-sensor phase-detection technology currently available to DSLRs owners. Until recently, the technology has been confined to models higher up in Canon’s DSLR range – the EOS 80D and 7D Mark II (£1250 body only), for example. The 800D was the first time the technology trickled down to Canon’s mid-range models.
In addition, the 800D’s viewfinder-based phase-detection AF system also saw a major revamp and now employs 45 individual AF points across the viewfinder, all of which are of the cross-type variety. This is a notable improvement from the 19-point system employed by the 750D/760D.
In terms of exposure modes, the 800D is well served by a generous range of options including the standard PASM quartet for more experienced users, alongside Scene Intelligent Auto mode and 10 individual Scene modes (some of which can be selected directly from the Exposure mode dial) for point-and-shoot duties.
Those wanting to get creative in-camera can take advantage of ten built-in digital filters (including old favourites such as Toy Camera, Miniature effect and a trio of HDR options), or choose one of nine Creative Auto settings, each of which is designed to capture images with a unique ambience.
JPEG processing options extend to Canon’s proprietary Picture Styles, of which there are eight presets and three User Defined slots to customise as you wish. In addition, the 800D also provides a range of in-camera lens-correction tools for minimising unsightly effects such as purple fringing and distortion, alongside the company’s longstanding Auto Lighting Optimizer tool to auto-correct image brightness and contrast.
Canon EOS 800D – Build and design
As with previous ‘triple-digit’ Canon DSLR models, the 800D is a compact, lightweight and neatly styled DSLR. While it does feel a little plasticky (a common trait of entry-level Canon DSLRs over the years), overall build quality is actually pretty much on par for a camera of this price and specification.
Inside the polycarbonate outer shell, the internal electronics of the 800D are protected by an aluminium alloy chassis. This should provide ample protection against the kind of gentle knocks and accidental scrapes most cameras experience at some point in their lifetime.
However, unlike models further up the EOS range, the 800D’s body isn’t weather sealed – so you’ll need to keep it as dry as possible when shooting in wet weather.
For a DSLR of such modest overall proportions, we found the 800D’s handgrip to be surprisingly deep and pronounced. With our averagely sized hands we were comfortably able to wrap three fingers around it, while the contoured thumb grip on the back of the body offers something to brace your thumb against for a secure grip.
The 800D may have been technically succeeded by mirrorless models like the EOS M50, but there’s still something to be said for stability and handling of a full-size DSLR, particularly with larger lenses. It’s well worth trying both to see which you prefer.
With the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II lens attached, the 800D feels exceptionally well balanced. The camera’s physical buttons and controls are all clearly labelled, well spaced and have a reassuringly responsive ‘clicky’ feel about them when pressed.
Canon EOS 800D – Viewfinder and screen
The 800D’s optical viewfinder employs a pentamirror design that provides 95% scene coverage at 0.82x magnification. The viewfinder itself isn’t overly large but it does provide a pin-sharp view through the lens.
In real terms, offering only 95% scene coverage means that there’s a good chance that something could creep into the edge of your frame. This is one area where electronic viewfinders have the advantage over their optical counterparts – even the most basic electronic finder shows you 100%.
These days, almost all electronic viewfinders are pretty good to use too – so while optical viewfinders still have plenty of fans, it’s something that’s starting to feel a little bit old-fashioned in the current climate.
Below the main viewfinder window, the 800D displays a range of key settings including shutter speed, aperture, ISO and a metering/exposure compensation bar.
Underneath this is the 800D’s 3-inch, 1040k-dot vari-angle touchscreen LCD panel. The Clear View II TFT screen is of very good quality and displays captured images with great clarity, showing vivid colours and good levels of contrast while the camera is being used in Playback mode.
The touchscreen is nice and responsive, too, never missing a beat when it comes to inputting commands through the screen with your fingers. As with previous models, the screen is side-hinged to allow it to be extracted fully 180 degrees from the camera body, from where it also rotates through 270 degrees. This enables the screen to be positioned so that it faces the rear of the camera for regular shooting as well as the front for self-portraits and suchlike.
Related: Best Cameras
Naturally, you can also rotate the screen to accommodate overhead and hip-level shooting. One small improvement the 800D does enjoy over the 750D/760D is the addition of an electronic level that can be used to get perfectly straight horizons when using a tripod. This is activated via the Info button that sits just to the left of the viewfinder.
Canon EOS 800D – Autofocus
While the introduction of Canon’s Dual Pixel AF technology represents a significant step forward for those who like to work in Live View mode, the 800D’s viewfinder-based phase-detection AF system also sees notable improvement from previous triple-digit EOS models.
More specifically, whereas the 750D/760D both used 19 cross-type AF points, the 800D inherits the same AF system used inside the EOS 80D, which benefits from 45 cross-type AF points across the central portion of the viewfinder. While there’s still a sizeable gap around the edges that isn’t covered, focusing remains speedy and precise, with a working range of -3 to 18EV at ISO 100.
Switching to the 49-point Dual Pixel AF Live View system, the working range drops slightly from -2EV to 18EV. Either way, that’s still pretty good and enables the camera to attain focus even in dim conditions. My only minor gripe is that the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens can be quite noisy while focus is being adjusted. If you’re shooting video in a quiet environment then you can expect the 800D’s built-in microphones to pick up on this.
When used in Live View mode you can set the active AF point via the rear touchscreen, simply by tapping on the subject on which you want to focus. Canon also provides a Touch Shutter function that takes things one step further by automatically capturing an image once the camera has attained focus on the chosen subject.
Servo AF is also available in Live View mode for shooting moving subjects alongside One Shot AF for stationary subjects.
Canon EOS 800D – Performance
The Digic 7 image processor is certainly very capable, even by 2020 levels, when it comes to burst shooting. With a 16GB SanDisk Extreme Pro Class 10/U3 SDHC card inserted into the camera, I was able to record approximately 25 consecutive Raw images at the maximum 6fps with AF-S employed. By way of comparison, the 750D could manage only eight frames at 5fps before slowing down.
Shooting at 6fps should be more than enough for most relatively slow moving action, but if high-speed shooting is your thing, it’s worth taking a look at some of the mid-range mirrorless models currently on the market for the same kind of asking price as the 800D. For example, the Panasonic Lumix GX9 can shoot at 9fps at full-resolution, or at 30fps by using 4K Photo modes.
Switching to Raw+JPEG capture, the number drops to around 22 images. In JPEG capture there appears to be no upper limit, aside from the size of your memory card and the amount of battery charge remaining of course.
JPEG image quality is, as we’ve come to expect from Canon DSLRs, very good indeed. Even with the camera set to its “Standard” Picture Style setting, colours are deep and vivid, with good levels of contrast. Of course, if you want to boost saturation then there’s a “Vivid” Picture Style to choose from, whereas if you’re looking for something flatter, the “Neutral” option will give you precisely this.
Matrix metering from the 7560-pixel RGB+IR metering sensor proves consistently accurate in all but the most extreme high-contrast situations, resulting in evenly lit images that are neither too dark nor too bright. Likewise, Automatic White Balance also serves up consistently accurate colour.
Canon EOS 800D – Guided User Interface
Another handy feature on the 800D is its Guided User Interface. This is a purely optional feature that can be accessed and switched on/off via the Display Level tab in the main in-camera menu.
Once the Guided UI is activated, the rear LCD panel will change from a standard display of key camera settings to a more animated one that also provides some basic information and practical advice specific to the exposure mode selected.
For example, with ‘aperture priority’ mode selected, the rear LCD shows an intuitive slider graphic that displays whereabouts in the aperture range the aperture is currently set to, along with a brief description of what kind of photo the chosen aperture value would best suit – and with how much it will blur or bring into focus the background behind the main subject.
The information and advice supplied by the GUI doesn’t go into any great detail, but is useful if you’re just starting out with a DSLR and aren’t sure how changing key camera settings will affect your images.
The Guided UI can also be applied to the in-camera menu. Here it essentially just simplifies the standard in-camera menu, by grouping all four sub-menu tabs – Shooting, Playback, Function and Display Level – together on a single introductory screen, with a brief description of what you can expect to find within each.
Canon EOS 800D – Video
At the time of the 800D’s launch, 4K video was not a standard feature on entry-level DSLRs. It still isn’t, but the EOS M50, Canon’s entry-level mirrorless model has it (albeit with limited applications).
Just like all other entry-level DSLRs, the 800D is limited to 1080p Full HD capture. How much this bothers you very much depends on the type of shooter you are, but even cheaper mirrorless rivals, such as the Panasonic Lumix GX800, incorporate 4K shooting (as does your phone, in all likelihood).
That said, Canon did improve the video capabilities of the 800D over the 750D/760D, bringing it into line with both the EOS 77D and the EOS 80D via the inclusion of 1080p Full HD video recording at 60fps. The highest video setting on the 750D/760D was 1080p Full HD at 30fps.
Even more impressive was the 800D’s introduction of in-camera image stabilisation. This is only applicable to video recording and can’t be used for still image capture, but it can be activated to ensure smoother video capture when shooting handheld.
There are three settings to choose from: Off, Regular IS and Enhanced IS. The Regular setting can be used to counter basic handshake, while the latter is intended for use in more extreme circumstances. Either way, the difference is clear to see, not just in recorded footage but also in the rear LCD panel while recording is in progress.
As with previous triple-digit models, the 800D also sports a dedicated microphone jack in addition to the twin stereo microphones on the front of the camera body.
Canon EOS 800D – Image Quality
Overall, the 800D produced a solid set of test results. Resolution was the clear standout, with the sensor returning an excellent set of images despite Canon’s decision to retain an optical low-pass filter.
While JPEGs returned decent enough results, I found that using Adobe Camera Raw to sharpen raw images ourselves yielded better results. Dynamic range has been improved from the two-year-old 750D/760D models, too, with the 800D returning slightly higher figures than its predecessors across the camera’s sensitivity range.
Using Adobe Camera Raw to sharpen raw images produced much better results than leaving the 800D to sharpen JPEGs in-camera. For example, at ISO 100 JPEGs processed in-camera returned a figure of 3,400l/ph, whereas with some careful sharpening of raw images, I was able to stretch resolution to 3,600l/ph. This trend continues as you move up through the sensitivity range, and while JPEGs dip just below 3,000l/ph at ISO 1600, raw resolution figures remain above 3,000l/ph up until ISO 6400.
Canon EOS 800D, RAW, ISO 100. Multiply the number below the line by 200 for the resolution in lines/picture height
Canon EOS 800D, RAW, ISO 3200. Multiply the number below the line by 200 for the resolution in lines/picture height
Canon EOS 800D, RAW, ISO 12,800. Multiply the number below the line by 200 for the resolution in lines/picture height
Canon EOS 800D, RAW, ISO 51,200. Multiply the number below the line by 200 for the resolution in lines/picture height
At ISO 100, the 800D returned a dynamic range of 12.5EV, which is nearly a full stop higher than the 750D’s figure of 11.6EV and almost identical to the 80D’s 12.6EV.
It performs well against the Pentax K-70 (12.3EV) and Sony A68 (11.9EV), although the Nikon D5500 produces the best results of all with a maximum dynamic range (at ISO 100) of 13.3EV.
Moving up through its ISO range the 800D remains a strong performer, with figures of 11.7EV at ISO 200, 11.3EV at ISO 400 and 10.4EV at ISO 800. Beyond this figures start to drop off, with 8.5EV available at ISO 3200 and 7.4EV at ISO 6400.
As with resolution, our testing revealed quite a difference between in-camera JPEGs and manually processed raw images. Raw was again the clear winner, with manually processed images showing noticeable gains in image quality over in-camera JPEG processing.
While JPEGs do display very low levels of noise all the way up to ISO 3200, the effects of in-camera noise reduction led to a noticeable loss of fine detail. While this isn’t quite so apparent at ISO 100 and ISO 200, by ISO 400 the effects of in-camera noise control begin to produce a smearing of fine detail. With careful raw processing, however, it’s possible to retain this fine detail.
That said, for most users, the overall image quality of JPEGs remains pretty good and is eminently usable until about ISO 6400.
Canon EOS 800D, RAW, ISO 100
Canon EOS 800D, RAW, ISO 6400
Canon EOS 800D, RAW, ISO 25,600
Canon EOS 800D, RAW, ISO 51,200
Should I buy the the Canon EOS 800D?
Canon’s excellent upper entry-level DSLRs are still a great place to start for anybody looking for their first camera.
To date, the 800D remains in Canon’s line-up, but it some senses it has been superseded both by the smaller and lighter EOS 200D, and the mirrorless EOS M50 model. Both are just as worthy of your attention if you’re looking to move up from a smartphone and get a little bit more serious.
These days, DSLRs are of course not the only option, either. As well as Canon’s own range of compact system cameras, there are plenty of entry-friendly models from other brands, too. Given the reasonably hefty asking price of the 800D, it pays to do a little bit of research to make sure your heart is set on a DSLR.
However, if you’re keen to stick with tradition and like the handling of DSLRs, the 800D is a good option. You can pick up the 750D for a cheaper price, but for the extra cash you get a better sensor, newer sensor, and better autofocusing – all things which are almost always definitely worth paying for.
Related: Best cameras
For those who prefer the handling, balance and usability of DSLRs to more advanced mirrorless cameras, the 800D remains an excellent first-time choice.
Canon EOS 200D
Featuring much of the same spec as the 800D, but in a slightly smaller body, the EOS 200D is an ideal option for anybody trying to keep their kit bag on the light side. As a sacrifice, you get a slightly reduced burst shooting speed – but as neither this nor the 800D are speed demons, most users won’t notice the difference.
Panasonic Lumix GX9
For roughly the same price as the 800D and the kit lens, you can pick up Panasonic’s diminutive Lumix GX9. The ideal companion for travelling due to its small size, it’s got 4K Video and Photo, as well as access to an ever-increasing number of Micro Four Thirds lenses.
Additional testing and copy by Amy Davies
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